Frequently Asked Questions

We’re planning to add a redwood pergola to our house and, in addition to looking at Forever Redwood, we’re getting a couple estimates from local contractors. What makes Forever Redwood different?

Our redwood timbers are cut extra thick. If you are comparing with local contractors, keep in mind the timbers will be thinner than ours when comparing pricing.

Also, our kits have all the timbers notched into every other timber. The notching is the secret to making a strong and attractive pergola. If a local contractor will agree to do all the notching, they will probably not be able to do it for our pricing. The notching is very labor intensive. We can do it reasonably because we have developed custom equipment in our shop to do it in just a couple days.

Does the Anchor Kit give a 1/4-inch clearance from the concrete platform? Bermuda building code.

The anchors are 1/4″-thick steel. So, by placing them on the concrete they will indeed automatically raise the wood posts off the ground by your required code. Plus, the anchor bolts will not sit completely flush at the base of the anchors, so this will add another 1/32″ or so height off the ground.

Also, we recommend taking a few minutes to add some paint (oil-based is best) to the bottoms and first few inches of the posts. Add a couple of coats to make sure they are 100% sealed up. For the tropics where there is an almost endless supply of water, this will make sure the bottom of the posts wick up as little moisture as possible. Since you are using our anchoring kit, the included wood trim pieces will hide the paint at the base of the posts—so if you have old, extra paint lying around, this is a great way to put it to good use.

I want a lot of shade under my Pergola. Can the spacing of the roof rafters be set at 2 or 3 inches on center and what would be the additional cost?

The roofs slats can be set closer together at whatever spacing you like. However, going to just 3 inches on center will create much more shade than you are imagining—it will create almost a closed roof. The slats are 1.75″ wide each. At 3 inches on center, you only have 5/8″ of an inch of open space between the each slat. You’ll block the view of the sky completely and have over 80% solid wood on the top layer of the roof. If you then figure the 5.75″ tall rafters below are set at 18 inches on center and also block a lot of sunlight (since the sun is at an angle most of the time), you will have nearly 100% shade under the pergola at most hours of the day except when the sun is directly overhead. The extra roof slats will add 11% to the original cost estimate.

If you still would like to proceed, consider a maximum of 6 inches on center when doing the assembly (don’t screw them in—just place them at 6 inches on center) and see how it looks and how much shade it provides. Then, after a day or two, go back and either screw them in at 6 inches on center or go ahead and add more to get to 3 inches on center. It is doubtful you’ll want to place them at 3 inches on center because you’ll lose the ability of seeing up and not gain much additional shading. You’ll have over 80% shade most of the time at 6 inches on center, which is the closest together any one of our customers has ever placed the roof slats.

I don’t want any top stringers, and on the spacing of the top boards, I’d like them to be 12″ or even wider apart. [Florida customer inquiring about a large pergola that will require a local permit.]

The different levels of a pergola roof are important structural elements.

The top stringers—what we call roof slats—are important structural elements. They are notched into each rafter below to make the super-strong “web” design of our pergola roofs. Without any of the 2×2 roof slats, I think you’ll have difficulty getting the permits approved unless we make some other structural adjustments. For example, you’ll have to place metal ties at each juncture between the rafters and the roof support timbers.

The roof support timbers are precisely that—they are the horizontal 2×6’s that are notched into each side of the posts and they hold the rafters that sit atop and perpendicular to them. Each rafter is notched into the roof support timbers below it, but to really strengthen the pergola roof to resist high storm winds in Florida, I’d recommend keeping at least some of the 2×2 roof slats above them.

If you’d like to have 12″ on center rafters, we can design the structural details in a couple ways. For example, if you don’t mind some “stringers” (roof slats), we can place them either 24″ or 36″ on center to just serve as extra strengthening without creating too busy of a structure. Or, if you really do not want any roof slats in the design, we can then place metal “l” brackets atop the roof support timbers between each rafter that tie to each side of each rafter. It will barely be visible from below and should be fine for the county permit also.

We use excellent quality redwood because it’s the most decay and insect resistant wood that grows naturally in North America. The best value is to go with our Mature Redwood. It is guaranteed against decay for 20 years and will easily last longer and is reasonably priced. Vinyl, fiberglass and other products are less expensive, but you’ll wind up having to replace them sooner.

Do you give any detailed directions on pergola assembly? Such as where chainsaw cuts are needed, how to attach the different poles, how to set the pole on top of a cement base, and any type of sealant?

A Pole Pergola is relatively simple to build. You will need a bit of muscle to put it together, but it’s healthy fun work. I would buy at least one extra pole in each size to make sure you have everything beforehand. When we build them locally, we have always cut at least one to the wrong size or placed a notch in the wrong place. And, we almost always make at least minor design changes as the structure starts to take shape. What you don’t want happening is having to email us a month from now to ship you ONE more post cross country.

We have installed about a dozen pole pergolas in California over the past couple years for customers that didn’t want to tackle it. We build them using just a few tools: a small chainsaw to resize and notch the posts, a drill to pre-drill the holes where the lag bolts will be screwed in, a ratchet for the lag bolts, a couple ladders, and a level to make sure everything is straight.

If you follow a few simple steps, you can have a beautiful Redwood Pole Pergola that will last for years!

Here are a few pointers we’ve picked up that will save you time and make the structures last a couple decades at least:

If the pergola is going on undeveloped ground, dig holes a couple feet deep (or below your local frost-line). You can use sonotubing about 8 inches wide or just dig a hole about 10” wide or so and add metal and rebar. Place a metal anchor (like a Simpson Tie brand anchor available at any hardware store in dozens of sizes) about two inches above ground level to dry into the concrete pour. A day after the concrete pour you can attach your posts to these metal anchors with lag bolts.

Make sure your corners are squared before pouring concrete. To square your corners, make sure the diagonals across to each corner are identical in length (or at least to a ¼” difference).

To maximize the life of these beautiful rustic pole pergolas, make sure to elevate the posts a couple inches off the ground (by pouring the concrete that way). This will keep the posts from absorbing constant moisture from the ground and you’ll significantly increase their life. Another thing to do is to seal up all the pole ends thoroughly. Use oil-based paint in a color that is closest to the natural wood color so it will blend in and barely be noticeable. Add 2 or 3 coats to all the ends to seal them up as much as possible. Take extra time to do this to the ones that will be facing down at ground level.

You’ll also need at least one helper with a good back to help hoist the poles in place and basic chainsaw operation and safety knowledge (yes, gloves and a helmet are excellent ideas!). When you are putting up the first pieces, you may need a second helper for a few minutes to hold things in place.

Now the real fun begins. Notch into the bark and a bit into the wood where the poles will meet to “lock” them together and to make the lag bolt go from wood to wood and not from bark to bark. Each spot where a pole meets another pole should be notched this way. Then drill through and attach a lag bolt. We usually use 8-inch log galvanized lag bolts. 3/8” thick is usually enough. As you lay out the poles, notice they all have taper of approximately 1 inch in diameter per 6 to 8 ft. This is the natural shape of the young trees. To compensate for this place the fat ends of the poles in alternating directions—one fat end followed by one thin end followed by one fat (per side), etc.

Other than that, be safe and have fun with it. A tiny chainsaw is more than sufficient to do the work. No need for a $500 saw—a $100 chainsaw will do the job fine.

Hi, I have a cut-out that interferes with the roof line above a patio where I’d like to put a new pergola. My patio roof hangs over the patio by about 1 1/2′. Can you design and build a pergola around it?

Absolutely! For an idea of how a project like this could work, take a look at the drawings below. Before we ship your pergola, we’ll talk with you to determine your exact needs, create set of AutoCad drawings for your approval, modify the plans as needed, and then build the pergola to your specifications. It will arrive at your door within 2 to 3 weeks.

(Please note: we ask for a 50% deposit before we begin work on the drawings, as it is a time-consuming process, but well worth the time!)

AutoCad Drawing for 20 x 14 Custom Pergola

AutoCad Drawing for 20 x 14 Custom Pergola

I’d like to put a pergola on my existing wood deck, and I was wondering if your anchor kits would be compatible with a wood deck as the foundation?

We’ve built pergola kits for wooden decks many times. Sometimes, if the pergola is rather large (over 120 square ft), the customer winds up deciding to order some or all of the posts longer in order to anchor them to a support beam below deck level. You can then tie the pergola posts to the support beam with long carriage bolts.

How the pergola is attached really depends on your deck’s structure and the size of the pergola you are considering.

A five minute phone conversation usually covers any questions. If you prefer email, send a couple photos of your deck, along with the pergola size you are contemplating. We will take a look at your situation and offer a suggestion on how to best secure the pergola for long term safety and enjoyment.

[The following is an example taken from an email exchange.]

There are many ways to configure the pole structure. I will present just one idea for now and you can review and make changes from this starting point, to arrive at what would work best for you.

Pergola Made of Redwood Poles

If we are to cover a total roof space of up to 12′ 5″ x 28′ 5″ or slightly smaller, we will need at least a 6-post structure. For example, we can build a 6-post version of the 8-post pole structure pictured at right. If you don’t like this one, just let us know what you have in mind. I mention this one because it’s popular and simple. We place 6 poles in the ground and then run roof support poles between them along the long length (28′ 5″). The 6 post poles should be at least 8″ in diameter. The roof support poles can be a bit smaller, maybe 7″ in diameter. Once this basic roof structure is up, you can add the “roof” poles in just about any configuration that pleases you. From a more open design as shown in the photo to a more closed design with smaller poles if you prefer.

Please take a look at the several pole pergolas on our site and let us know if any of them are in the direction of what you’d like to accomplish. We can assemble and install the pole pergola for you because you are here in California. We will cut all the posts and make the necessary notching on site.  We will also do the necessary concrete work for the posts.

The pole cost is reasonable. If we build the basic structure of the photo with 6 posts and keep the pole spacing of the roof at roughly 3 feet on center, you will need:

• 6 post poles – 12 ft long, 7” minimum diameter
• 4 roof support poles – 14 ft long, 7” minimum diameter
• 9 roof poles – 14 ft long (trimmed to 12’ 5”), 5” minimum diameter
• 10 roof timber poles (highest roof level of photo above) – 14 ft long (2 poles will be spliced together at center to cover the 28’ span—this won’t be visible), 3.5” minimum diameter

What’s the difference between anchoring pergola posts above ground, and sinking them 3 feet under?

You can do it both ways, but sinking the posts is a better alternative if you’re going to buy the pergola in the Mature or Old-Growth Redwood. Both wood grades are very decay resistant in moist conditions (like underground) and will hold up fine for decades. The Redwood wood grade will only last 15 years if buried 3 feet underground. This is the reason both anchoring options are mentioned.

Sinking the posts is a structurally stronger way to attach the set. You’ll pay a bit more for the longer posts, but you don’t have to buy the anchoring kit. Some customers like the trim pieces around the base of the posts even when they are sinking the posts in the ground. If you are planning on sinking the posts and want the trim pieces, just let us know in the “Special Instructions & Custom Requests” box upon checkout. We’ll send them at no extra charge.

If you are in a relatively dry climate (less than 20 inches of rain per year), the Redwood wood grade is the best investment because it will last a couple decades in the drier climate and is less expensive than Mature or Old-Growth Redwood. If you’re going with the Redwood wood grade, do the concrete work and attach above ground for a long-lasting structure. If you’re planning to purchase the Mature Redwood, sink the posts and order them 12 feet long.

We rarely sell pergola kits in Old-Growth. It’s an exquisite wood most of our customers order for furniture instead. We will gladly build your pergola in Old-Growth if you prefer, but for most parts of the country, your best investment option in relation to durability is the Mature Redwood. It will last 25 to 30 years without maintenance even in severe climates, while the Old-Growth may last 5 to 10 years longer but at a significant price premium.